GoodTime Four Wheelers

Does that mean my whole truck needs fixed?

I think he means you should finish breaking the rest of it, then there will be no guessing what it needs.

So, how's the overhaul going? I have an IFS steering box if you need one.

thanks for the offer. I only had to reweld the mount for the steering box, replace the pump, and replace the power steering cooler, other than that the box itself was fine.
but on other notes, the truck is coming along fine. I chose not to do more than just fix what doesn't work. So no upgrades just yet.

OK it has been test drove today. Made it up to 65 mph on the GPS with no issues from the front end. I will be loading it on to the trailer soon for the next trip. The checklist so far includes...

new front crossmember
reattached front bumper to new 1/4 wall 2' square crossmember.
straight tie rod and drag link.
load leafs installed on front springs.
front bumpstops.
straightened wrap bar.
reattached steering box.
steering cooler installed.
new steering pump.
new MC and lines, new WC in rear drums.
rock lites installed.
tires regrooved.

The evening I worked on the new Master Cylinder could have been enjoyed as a comedy skit on SNL. I thought that the FJ80 MC upgrade would be a good idea as my brakes were less than stellar last season. So after replacing the MC and bleeding the system it all looked good for the nite, then 3 days later the laughter started. I went to drive it around the block and had no brakes. I found that the new MC blew out the rusty brake lines to the rear, so I replaced them and set it up without the proportioning valve. All of the lines that I could keep in the front system were overtightened and mushroomed out beyond the threads and were hard to remove. When I got that done, I ran the new lines to the rear without a hitch, but when I had it all bled out and was testing I then blew out a rear wheel cylinder. Now that I had a new MC and lines and the fluid had no where else to leak out. So I started to remove the rear drums and could not un-adjust the pads beyong the ridge in the drum that was almost a 1/4" deep, the adjuster was rusted too badly. So after striping out the jack screws and trying to use larger ones and finally completely ruining the drum beyond even South Omaha standards, all I could do was bust it all out and replace everything. Which by now it is 10:00pm and all the parts stores are now closed. So I decided to check the brakes out on my spare axle and they were in great shape, so I began the process of removing 3 more brake drums to finish the job. 2 hrs later I am now bleeding my brakes for the 3rd time and all looks good, time to test drive it and see how it stops. I finished the drive and went to set the e brake and it wasn't connected to the pads inside the drum. That was the end of the nite for me. I think I need to wash my mouth out with soap now as I was doing alot of talking to myself during this process.

Maybe later I will finish the rear springs and the rest of all I want to do, but you can't wheel if the rig is in the garage, so I think this is it for the start of this whellin' season. There is always next year.

OK anyone with ideas here? I am having front axle issues.

My last trip out I wheeled hard enough to break the cage in one of those trailgear 27 spline chromoly birfs, running a stock inner shaft. Then after I was donated a longfield, I was still running with a stock 27 spline shaft, all of this on the short side. In the past I have also shelled 2 lockrite Lockers on the same short side.

Finally after having a new lockrite with stock half shafts and a longfield on the short side, I shelled the new lockrite, AGAIN.

That makes 3 lockrites in 5 outings. And on the last two, they were set up with less than 5/32" clearance in between, just as recommended. What is wrong with my stuff. I am breaking all of the aftermarket stuff before the stock parts, and it grows tiring. Could it be the 35" 15.50's I run? I thought that 35" tires were moderate at best for a lockrite.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, if I can't keep a locker together with stock shafts, what will happen if I upgrade my axles completely?

Or is this just a problem with my Right Foot?

Don't know what to tell ya. Screw it and get some 60's or Rocks. You cold run stock on your 35's and not break.

I would suggest buying stronger set of shafts and stronger more reliable locker. I am kinda bias and think selectable is the way to go hands down but thats just me. Detroits are relatively cheap but alot of people don't like em because they disengage at the most inoportune times. I went through all the same stuff you are going through, breaking axles crosses, etc. and it is frustrating as hell. Makes you worry about breaking more than have fun and just go wheel. I would suggest upgrading your axles to a larger spline count chromoly axle and stronger locker. When I say locker I mean locker. Nothing with clutches or limited slip crap because that is what they are, limited. It will be a financial undertaking but you will not regret it in the long run. That would be my suggestion if you want to keep toyota axles. If you want to go with Dana axles I would suggest a Rear Full Float 60 with a full spool. Stock 30 spline would be fine with 35" tires but if you plan to go with bigger rubber you may have to bore the spindles and throw a 35 spine shaft in it. That way you can get completely retarded and not worry about them. I would put a 44 up front with chromoly shafts and CTM's and a selectable locker They are expensive and cliche but they are also strong as hell but, as I said, I am bias and will be a great financial undertaking. Even better, in my opinion, would be if you can find an old 1 ton truck and just snag the drive train. That way you have all your driveshafts and yokes, just have to mate them to your toyota T-case. Everybody says they still want to drive their rig on the road but eventually that goes by the wayside and I think you are to that point now. Build it stout as hell and don't worry about the street handling. Just my two cents, take it for what its worth. Hope I didn't piss you off too bad.

Dirty 30 kit from trail gear. And an Aussie locker or and ARB. Or if ya can get a TRD go for it, mine work great and we know how I wheel.

I have been wondering why you have been killing these lockrites.
As you know I have had the same lockrite in the front for over 5 years and no problems. I have the longfields 30s and had Q78 before these 39s. The only difference I know between your setup and mine is my Diff is a 4.88 V6 out of a 94 4runner Auto. So they are stock gears but I believe the V6 carrier might be the difference.

I do agree that a selectable locker is the way to go. I know if you keep the 4.10 you could probably find a used one for less then some aftermarket ARB, But I bet you would have to look around hard for one.

Definitely get the Dirty 30s and keep the 27 Spl stuff as spares.